Terms and Definitions
Antioxidants - compounds that neutralize harmful free radicals that lead to oxidative stress.
Carotenoids - naturally occurring pigments found in most fruits and vegetables, plants, algae, and photosynthetic bacteria. Humans cannot synthesize carotenoids and must ingest them in food or via supplementation. They primarily exert antioxidant effects.
Dihydroquercetin - also known as taxifolin, is a naturally occurring flavonoid with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The therapeutic promise of dihydroquercetin in major inflammatory disease states such as cancer was recently reviewed. In particular, it was reported that dihydroquercetin can act as a scavenger of myeloperoxidase (MPO)- derived RNS. Further, a most recent controlled study, showed that dihydroquercetin was able to downregulate the collagenase 1 (MMP-1) in UVB- treated skin cells.
Emulsifier - a binding agent and emulsion stabilizer.
Ferulic Acid - a naturally occurring phenolic acid found in plants, particularly in the seeds and leaves of grains like oats and rice, as well as in fruits and vegetables. It acts as an antioxidant protecting plants from environmental damage like UV radiation and pollution. In skincare it's prized for its ability to enhance the effectiveness of other antioxidants like vitamins C and E, and to provide photo protection against UV damage.
Flavonoids - a large group of plant-based compounds, or phytonutrients, found in many fruits, vegetables, and other plant-based foods. They are known for their antioxidant and anti inflammatory properties. Flavonoids are responsible for the vibrant colors of many fruits, vegetables, and flowers.
Humectant - a substance that attracts and helps maintain moisture.
Isoflavones - a type of phytoestrogen, a plant based compound with a structure similar to the human hormone estrogen. They are primarily found in legumes, especially soy, and are known for their potential health benefits, including antioxidant, anticancer, and anti inflammatory.
Linoleic Acid (c18:2)- a polyunsaturated fatty acid. It is a member of the omega-6 family. It is involved in the regulation of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and lipid barrier homeostasis.
Linolenic Acid (c18:3)- a polyunsaturated fatty acid. It is a member of the omega-3 family. It plays a vital role in skin barrier function.
Lipid - Any class of compounds that are fatty acids or their derivatives and are insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents. They include many natural oils, waxes, and steroids.
Liposome - A minute spherical sac of phospholipid molecule enclosing a water droplet, especially as formed artificially to carry drugs or other substances into the tissues.
Oxidative stress - this occurs when there are excessive free radicals and insufficient antioxidants. This imbalance leads to cellular damage.
Phenols - a class of organic compounds characterized by a hydroxyl group (-OH) directly attached to a caron atom within an aromatic ring, most commonly a benzene ring. Phenols tend to be more soluble in water than comparable alcohols due to stronger hydrogen bonding capabilities. Phenol is commonly used as a topical anesthetic, in throat sprays.
Phospholipids: Phospholipids are a type of lipid molecule that forms the structural basis of cell membranes. They consist of a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tailss, and a phosphate containing head group. This unique structure makes them amphipathic, meaning they have both hydrophilic (water attracting) and hydrophobic (water repelling) regions.
Phytol: an acrylic diterpene alcohol and a constituent of chlorophyll. Phytol is commonly used as a precursor for the manufacture of synthetic forms of vitamin e and vitamin k1.
Phytosterols - are Phyto steroids, similar to cholesterol, that serve as structural components of biological membranes of plants. They encompass plant sterols and stanols. Free phytosterols extracted from oils are insoluble in water, relatively insoluble in oil, and soluble in alcohol.
Quercetin - a flavonoid found in many fruits and vegetables. It's numerous health benefits, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, and anti-cancer properties, have been extensively studied. It's strong antioxidant properties enable it to scavenge free radicals, reduce oxidative stress, and protect against cellular damage.
Resveratrol- a stilbene, a type of polyphenol, that plants produce to protect themselves from stressors. This is a naturally occurring compound found in various plants, notably red grapes. Resveratrol exhibits antioxidant and anti-aging properties. It exists in two forms: cis- and trans-resveratrol.
Squalene - a triterpene with the formula C30H50. It is a colorless oil. It was originally obtained from shark liver oil (hence it's name, as Squalus is a genus of sharks). An estimated 12% of bodily squalene in humans is found in sebum. Squalene has a role in topical skin lubrication and protection.
Sterols: - a type of lipid found in both plants and animals. They are characterized by a specific molecular structure with four fused rings and are known for their role in cell membranes and hormone production.
Surfactant - a substance that reduces surface tension of a liquid.
Tocopherols - a group of fat-soluble compounds that are part of the broader vitamin E family. They are known primarily for their antioxidant properties & protecting cells from damage caused by free radicals. There are four main types: alpha, beta, gamma, and delta tocopherol.
Tocotrienols - a form of vitamin E found in plant oils and grains.Tocotrienols differ structurally from tocopherols (another form of vitamin E) by having an unsaturated side chain. Tocotrienols act primarily as antioxidants, protecting cells from damage caused by free radicals.
Triterpenes - a class of terpenes composed of six isoprene units with the molecular formula C30H48. Animals, plants, and fungi all produce triterpenes, including squalene, the precursor to all steroids.
Vanillin: a phenolic aldehyde with the molecular formula C8H8O3. It's functional groups include aldehyde, hydroxyl, and ether. It is the primary component of the ethanolic extract of the vanilla bean.
Waxes - Waxes in oils are not oils themselves, but rather fatty acid esters, different from the triglycerides found in typical vegetable oil. They are the esters formed from fatty acids and long chain alcohols. Unlike fats and oils, which are triglycerides, waxes are not made of glycerol.
Xerosis - Abnormal dryness of the skin.